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Please scroll down to find instructions for your particualar model.

Instructions for Kit # 4901 Western Star 4900FX

1.Remove flash as required and wash with soap and water.
2.Fill any pine holes if necesary using Testers model putty or CA zap mixed with baking soda.
3.Test fit cab to desired chassis ( this kit fits best on Herpa`s chrome or silver painted Pete, Freightliner, or KW full fender chassises).
4.Paint and detail cab if desired.
5.Cut windows out of clear sheet and file to fit (if one is carefull you can file the windows to fit around the wipers).
6.Add an interior (I useually use one from the parts box or cut down a IH 9200 interior) if desired.
7.Add a bumper* or any other details desired.
8.Secure cab to frame with either Tube glue or CA zap (carefull not to frost the windows!).
*Note: you might try using a bumper from Herpa`s Frieghtliner, Herpa`s Kenworth (texas style), or scratch building one.
I hope you enjoyed building your kit!

IH 9200 instructions kit # 9201

1. Remove all flash using x-acto knife and/or filing board.
2. Wash all parts in soap&water. Allow to dry.
3. Test fit and align cab to hood Align top edge of hood even with top of cowel(some filling may be necessary to obtain a uniform hood gap); when fit is satisfactory, use a small amount of CA or Zap to set pcs. If fit is still good, apply more glue to inside seam and allow to dry.
4. Test fit roof faring to cab Align front edge of sides to rear of cab door glue inside edges with a CA glue
5. If you are using an athern or Herpa frame extend it at the front using 0.40" plastic strips (to obtain a set back axel and provide a place to mount the bumper) make the strips longer then the bumper so they can be filed down later for a better fit) Allow a drop section for the lower hood edge to sit (this too can be filed in later. Go on to next step.
6. Using plastic strips of varios sizes, place on frame where back of cab will rest and firewall meets frame till cab sits level and fenders have clearence with the (wheels of your choice) this may require a few trys to get right, also mark the center piont of the cab to the frame (keep in mind that the real truck isn't a perfect fit all the time. At this point you can file top of frame extensions till everything is level ( hood should slope) When all those peices come together you can file front of frame to accept bumper....it should fit flush to the front and fit to profile of fenders (snug to bottom of hood.) If painting, GLUE using white glue (school glue) for a temporary fit!
7. Now that you have the cab siting on the frame test fit side farings (they shoud be flush to the hood and level with the bottom of the cab) file or add shims to obtain correct fit and glue them to the frame using white glue.
8. Now that the side farings are mounted you mark how much the frame needs to be shortened or lengthened to the correct wheel base, then remove the cab and side farings (to make it easier to work with the frame) after the frames lenth has been changed you can repete steps 6 and 7 this time using CA glue to glue the Side farings
9. Next test fit inerior and make sure that it doesn`t hang up on anything
10.If you wish to paint the model you can do so now
11. make winows using a clear Acete (cute them and file them to shape) install with white glue, glue cab to frame lining all peices up
12. The model is now finished unless you wish to add varous details such as, mud flaps, mirriors, wipers, and grab handels (avalable as detail items from Aline, or from spare herpa kits)

Instructions for Kit # 4201 Volvo VNL420

1.Remove flash as required and wash with soap and water.
2.Test fit all parts & trim carefully until good fit is achieved. Rear of cab/sleeper and side extenders may require thin strip of plastic to seal gap.
3.Glue in place using plastic model cement until fit is good, then use CA or ZAP to finalize bond!
4.Fit up hood to cowl using top of fenders as mating point.
5.Bumper may be fit to hood bottom or to front of frame selected.
6.We recommend painting as a unit to avoid having to remove paint from glue points.
Note: A 208-210" wheelbase is suitable for 3 axle tractor (or 2.4 inches to scale). Ride height is about .13 inches from bottom of side skirting to ground.

IH 8300 instructions

1. Clean all parts with soap/water
2. Remove flash and test fit all parts prior to gluing
3. Fit hood to cab,align and cement
4. Fit roof fairing to cab; bottom of side cab extensions should be even with bottom of door edge; sand if necessary
5. Sand side skirting flush to outer detail from back side; fit to cab at fender and cab side extension.
6. Repeat for other side
7. Option: a. you may choose to glue bumper to the hood edge
b. you may opt to glue bumper to the frame of your choice (Herpa's, Athearn's or a scratch built frame)
8. If you want to paint your model I would suggest cementing it all together except the bumper and paint as a unit. Note: if two-tone or stripes are required Use white glue for locating parts first, then after all paint is complete and dry you can use CA or Zap CARFULLY !
9. If you wish to add windows they maybe cut roughly to shape from a sheat of Clear Acetate (or a similar product) and then sanded for final fit in window opening, and they may be held in place with white glue

LTL-9000 instructions

1. Clean all parts with soap/water
2. Remove flash and test fit all parts prior to gluing
3. Fit hood to cab,align and cement
4. Test fit the interior in the cab to make sure everything fits
5. Test fit the cab and hood asmb. to the frame of your choice (Herpa's, Athearn's or a scratch built frame) and add or remove pastic to get the correct ride height
6. Option: a. you may choose to glue bumper to the hood edge
b. you may opt to glue bumper to the frame
7. If you wish to paint or detail the varous parts of your model it should be done at this time
8. If you wish to add windows they maybe cut roughly to shape from a sheat of Clear Acetate (or a similar product) and then sanded for final fit in window opening, and they may be held in place with white glue I relize that since the windows on the LTL-9000 prototype are curved! This means that they will be very difficult to make so I included some tips for round glass making(at the bottom of this page)
9. Use white glue for locating parts first, then after all paint is complete and dry you can use CA or Zap CARFULLY ! Note the fuel tanks are not interchangeable (there is a right and left) the bottom step should stick out from the top step and the widest space before the tank strap should point to the front of the truck, I apologize for not marking them!

CH Mack upgrade kit instructions

1. Clean all parts with soap/water
2. Remove flash and test fit all parts prior to gluing
3. Remove the Tanks and rear quater fenders from the Herpa CH mack
4. Carefully cement (using a Ca or Zap glue) the front of the farings to the front quater fender(the middel part of the faring should be flush with the front quater fender) and the back to the frame and shim were needed
5. Remove the bumper from the Herpa CH Mack
6. First test fit the bumper to the hood and then Carefully cement (using a Ca or Zap glue). Note the hood may have to be cemented shut, as the bumper pins in the resin may be to soft or not present
7. Paint and detail farings and bumper as desired

Tips for making curved windows

I found the best way to make glass (wind screens) is to use .010" Thick (0.25 mm) clear sheet styrene from Evergreen Scale Models, this works very well with flat glass and slightly curved glass, but for heavily arced glass(like the front glass on the LTL) it worked but was very difficult!! The best way i found to make the front window was to cut the 0.25mm clear sheet to the rough shape and then file or sand it for a tight fit and when I sanded out the flash around the windows I left a slight lip(edge) to help keep the window in place( The trick and dificult thing to do is to make it so tight that the glass stays in place without glue (but make sure not to make it to tight otherwise you might destort the cab) and after the window is in place without glue carefully tooth pic in some white glue(school glue) around the edge (this way if you mess it up it just washes of with water). Good luck and I hope this helps you out!

FLD-120 instructions

1. Remove all flash using x-acto knife and/or filing board.
2. Wash all parts in soap&water. Allow to dry.
3. Test fit and align cab to hood (top edge of hood even with top of cowel); when fit is satisfactory, use a small amount of CA or Zap to set pcs. If fit is still good, apply more glue to inside seam and allow to dry.
4. Using an Athearn frame, both left and right fairings can be test fit to the frame ( they should fit level at the rear to the top of the frame) and using the assembled cab/hood test fit for correct width. Shim or file where necessary.....this is the most difficult part! Again, small amount of glue for fit; then apply more from inside.
*SEE NOTE BELOW*
5. Extend frame at front using 0.40" plastic strips to add the front bumper (make them longer then the bumper so they can be filed down later for a better fit) Allow a drop section for the lower hood edge to sit (this too can be filed in later. Go on to next step.
6. Using plastic strips of varios sizes, place on frame where back of cab will rest and firewall meets frame till cab sits level and fenders line up to top of side fairings (this may require multiple attempts and you may need to file out back of fender and top of fairing for exact fit.) Keep in mind the real truck isn't a perfect fit all the time. At this point you can file top of frame extensions till everything is level ( hood should slope) When all those peices come together you can file front of frame to accept bumper....it should fit flush to front and fit to profile of fenders (snug to bottom of hood.) If painting, DO NOT GLUE AT THIS POINT!
7. The roof fairing or air dam has cut out sections for centre lite cluster and air horns. For a better fit, mark out outer clearance lites and using small round file, notch out area. When fit is good, you may glue to cab. Leave approximately 2mm from rearward door opening to front edge of fairing (for super detailing add grab handles to that location.)
8. At this point you can paint model.
9. Unless adding an interior and windows, glue cab to frame lining all peices up, then glue bumper in place.
*NOTE*: side fairings should have exhaust openings filled to use the roof air dam; if air dam is not used, take round file to cab to open top side of opening (align to fairing to mark centre of opening) for use with cab mounted exhaust pipes.
Go back to home page | Go to truck picture catagories | Product pricing and ordering. | Go here to see what our assembled resin kits look like. | Tips and instructions page sign my guest book! | View my guest book! | click here to email us with any questions or comments | Links